Editing Hauraki (section)

===Starting Funds===

On the equipment front if you do not have the Rich Edge, please roll an exploding 1d6 without the hero die. Add 1 if you would have papers (doc or engineer).

{| class="wikitable" style="width:100%"
! '''1d6 Roll'''
! '''Approximated Wealth'''
|-
| style="width:20%;text-align:right" |1
|Pursued for substantial debts, broke
|-
| style="width:20%;text-align:right" |2
|Flat broke, barest gear to do your work
|-
| style="width:20%;text-align:right" |3
|Down at heel, few bob only in cash but standard portable gear
|-
| style="width:20%;text-align:right" |4
|Few quid in pocket, might have a decent suit, watch
|-
| style="width:20%;text-align:right" |5
|Doing ok. Hundred quid in pocket with same in the ANZ bank. Gear as above but more so. Pistol, hip flask, binoculars, etc. Better suit and shoes
|-
| style="width:20%;text-align:right" |6+
|Hundreds of pounds, or thousands if >1 shift. any gear within this range
|}

A pound is worth four dollars in 1920, btw, so it works out closer to RAW starting money for those with a decent roll. So in terms of a RAW purchasing, multiply by 4.

We’ll stick with £sd: pounds, shillings (20 per pound), and pence (12 per shilling). While we’re in these waters. I’m not going to be a stickler for period or local detail too much but I’ve always found it helpful to have an authentic feel about setting currency.