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| | == House Rules == | | == House Rules == |
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| − | As awesome as AD&D2E is, it's deceptively vague in some rules and how things are supposed to work. I think I've covered the most important stuff below, but if you have any questions please let me know.
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| − | '''Dice Rolling''' - Will be done on a dice rolling site. Just link to it when you are rolling stuff. I will likely modify results of rolls if they are going to result in the death of a character as I'm not fond of killing characters. That being said, good roleplaying > good dice rolling. If you do an awesome post with a terrible roll the results will be more in your favor than the dice roll suggests. I'm a huge advocate of making a good story over dice mechanics.
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| − | '''Starting Attributes''' - The way of rolling attributes in old school D&D is kinda broken. You can end up with a stupidly powerful character while the player beside you had a stupidly weak character. I'm looking for everybody to be about on-par with each other but I also want to avoid god-like attributes. So we're going to say you have 72 attribute points and can distribute them however you want. That averages out to each attribute being 12, slightly above average but nothing crazy. Taking a 17 or 18 in one attribute will mean sacrificing your other attributes.
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| − | '''Starting Hit Points''' - You start with whatever your maximum conceivable amount is. Thus, a Fighter with 18 Constitution would have 14 (1d10 + 4) whereas a Mage with 18 Constitution would have 6 (1d4 + 2). From level 2 and beyond you roll for HP as per usual, but can re-roll a 1 on your HD rolls (one re-roll per level up permitted).
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| − | '''Starting Gold''' - You start with the maximum available to your chosen class. If you multi-class take the average of your chosen classes as your starting gold. Being a Fighter and rolling 50gp for starting money really really sucks. This way you'll be decently equipped at the start.
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| − | '''Kits''' - I have the Complete books. If you want to take a Kit I am all for it. However you must remember that that is a lifetime choice for your character. Furthermore, your kit must fit with the setting. No ninjas or psions or other stuff that doesn't fit the setting.
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| − | '''Proficiencies''' - We will be using Proficiencies. However I'm going to assume each of you has the ability forage food when you are out in the wild. So don't worry about carrying food/rations/water/etc unless you feel the urge to play at that level. I'm also going to assume you can ride a horse and do other basic actions without requiring a proficiency test. However if you are riding a horse and get attacked...that's a whole different thing.
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| − | '''Ammunition Tracking''' - Yes you will need to track ammunition. You can however recover spent ammunition. Sling bullets, arrows, etc have a 50% chance to be recoverable when used, you just need to take the time to scour the battlefield looking for them and make a roll.
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| − | '''Material Components''' - Spell components are required for spells which list the value of said components, otherwise you are assumed to have the necessary material component automatically. I.e. Identify requires a pearl worth at least 100gp which you need to have, whereas Sleep simply requires a pinch of sand which you will be assumed to have in your possession. Later editions of D&D have a generic item called a "Spell Component Pouch" which accomplishes exactly what I've outlined here, but you don't have to pay for it. You have all the basic spell components, just anything that lists a specific value will be required.
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| − | '''Bonus Ability''' - Your class grants you access to information/resources when in cities. A thief, for example, will be able to track down the local thieves's guild when entering a city. Whereas a bard will be able to spend some time at one of the inns and get information and sometimes you might get lucky and get a unique event/encounter out of it. Druids and rangers can do the same but only out in the wilds. This ability will basically be a d20 roll with your class level acting as a bonus to the roll, higher roll gives you better results, lower rolls might result in you attracting unwanted attention. Each attempt as using this ability takes 2d6 hours in game time. The information/resources you get will be relative to your class and what you are hoping to accomplish (a bard walking into an inn for information can get a ton of useful stuff, whereas a fighter walking into a barracks will likely only get information on bandits or monsters in the area as fighters are too manly to concern themselves with other matters, etc). Good roleplaying gives a bonus to the roll.
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| − | Due to the length of time it takes for PBP games to move along, I do not recommend dual classing at all. I won't stop you, but it will hurt your xp gain compared to the rest of the party. Multi-classing is fine as you don't have to sacrifice a class to do it. But I really suggest not dual classing unless you are absolutely certain.
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| − | Aside from all that, there's a few class-specific house rules as outlined below:
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| − | '''Wizards'''
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| − | * You start the game with Detect Magic and Read Magic. You may then select 2 additional spells to add to your spell book (3 if you are a Specialist Wizard).
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| − | * You start the game with a 50 page spellbook (value 100gp). Each spell takes 1d4+level pages in your book. Blank spellbooks are commonly available in major cities priced at 2gp per page. Books are usually available with 50, 100, and 200 pages. You may find somebody selling a blank spellbook in a small town but you will likely pay a premium.
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| − | * Lastly, this isn't really a house rule but I've had it pop up in my games in the past. Wizards need approximately 10 minutes per spell level to memorize a spell. Unlike later editions of D&D, you are not required to rest to regain spells. If the party is ok with stopping briefly while you are on the road so you can commit new spells to memory that is perfectly ok.
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| − | '''Clerics'''
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| − | * You must choose a specific god to follow from the Greyhawk mythos.
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| − | * You gain proficiency with the weapon favored by your god as long as you are faithful to said god.
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| − | * Old versions of D&D are really vague on how many domains you get access to. They clarified that a lot in later editions, but old school D&D you get assigned major and minor spheres of magic. To keep things simple, I'm going to say you can select 3 Major spheres and 3 Minor spheres of influence for your magic but they have to be thematic to your god. (Druids get 6 major and 1 minor, but they have more limitations than a Cleric does so I think this is fair). I'm willing to be flexible here on the spheres as long as 1) it's thematic to your god, and 2) it's not overpowering.
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| − | * You will also get 1 Granted Power which is befitting to your chosen god instead of defaulting to Turn Undead. I am open to options on this, but again it must be thematic and within the same scope.
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| − | === Economic Stuff ===
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| − | Again....stuff that is deceptively vague in the core rules that I'm borrowing from other editions.
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| − | You may purchase the services of a wizard or priest when in a town if you need. Such services may be purchased in some cities for 100gp per level of the spell. Finding somebody selling low level spell services (1st and 2nd level spells) won't be difficult in decent sized cities. However finding somebody selling spell services for magic higher than that will be difficult, if not impossible depending on the level and the cost will be substantial (thousands of gold...or potentially requiring you to do something first). This applies to both wizard and priest spell services. Spell services in small villages will be very rare.
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| − | '''Hirelings'''
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| − | Working a general job pays about 2sp per day (i.e. farmers)
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| − | Working a specialist job that requires proficiencies pays about 4sp per day (i.e. scribes)
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| − | Working a skilled job that requires a class pays about 1gp per day per class level
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| − | '''Food & Lodging'''
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| − | A low quality inn costs 1sp per day (you might have to share the room with some rats though)
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| − | An average quality inn costs 2sp per day
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| − | A good quality inn costs 4sp per day
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| − | A high quality inn costs 1gp per day
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| − | '''Meals at taverns''' and such cost twice what is listed above for inns for each meal (i.e. an average meal will run you 4sp whereas a low quality meal will run you 2sp and includes free maggots, what a deal!)
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